(Don’t melt the zipper teeth.)įinally we can get to the waist seam. That’s how it looks like sewn on both sides of the zipper. So be sure you wrap the facing around the skirt and that the facing is not twisted. A word of caution here: if you are only dealing with the facing with no lining, it’s easy to twist to the facing. Again, with right sides facing, put the two layers together with the facing/lining protruding by the amount of the seam allowance. Now Let’s repeat for the other side of the zipper. Let’s imagine for one second that the top (waist) is finished you can see that the facing lies comfortably away from the zipper teeth. I also want to show you how it looks like with the skirt/facing/lining wrong sides together. The pressing helps to prevent a pleat in a later step. At this point, you can also give it a little press (don’t melt the zipper). Let me open it, and you can see how it the zipper/facing/lining are going together. This is how it looks like off the sewing machine. If you only have a facing with no lining, then you’d stitch only to the bottom of the facing. Keep stitching down as far as you can toward the bottom of the zipper. In this photo, the zipper teeth is under my finger. You will have to use your zipper foot to do this. I opt to stitch about in the middle of the zipper tape. The closer you stitch to the zipper teeth, the closer the lining will be to the zipper in the end product, and vice versa. But it will be on the left-hand side when you stitch the other side of the zipper.)įrankly, it doesn’t matter exactly what seam allowance you use here as long as you stitch through the zipper tape. (It’s on the right-hand side when you are stitching this side of the zipper. Then you will be stitching on the right-hand side of the zipper teeth through the two layers and the zipper tape. Use your fingers to feel where the zipper teeth and the zipper tape are in between the layers. This is how it looks like on the flipped side. The protrusion isn’t just for the facing portion, but it should go down as far as you can (unless you are working with only the facing with no lining). The facing/lining needs to protrude by 1/2″ (1.25 cm) (which is the width of my seam allowance – if your seam allowance is different, use that amount instead). With right sides together, placed the lining/facing on the skirt, with just a little nuance… To prepare to be sewn to the facing, you have to unzip it and have the seam allowance of the zipper “open” (or flat). You also have the skirt (or dress, but I will refer it as a “skirt” going forward) with the invisible zipper already installed. Take care not to trim, if possible, when serging to ensure the correct width of seam allowance. (Isn’t my whale cotton fabric adorable?)Īlso, this is the time to finish the raw edge in the center back. But I will point that out when we get to that part.įirst of all, you should have the lining already sewn together on the side seams and to the facing. All you have to do is to sew to the bottom of the facing instead of all the way down to the lining. This method also works if you use a facing without the lining. In this post, I am getting to the meat of the tutorial, which is the lining itself. For the sake of completeness, I went over how to sew an invisible zipper. In the last post, I mentioned that I came up with a new way to sew the lining along with an invisible zipper. Part 1 addressed how to sew an invisible zipper, and this post, part 2, deals with the lining. This post is about installing a lining with an invisible zipper. Invisible Zipper with Lining Installation – Part 2
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |